CAROLINA KENNELS
Supplies and Tips for Bringing Home a New Puppy
CRATE: I recommend a crate (wire type and as large as you can reasonably afford so they will have plenty of room to grow. A 36-inch long crate is absolutely perfect. Some of them have dividers in them so you can start off small and gradually change the size available. But not too big that it won't fit comfortably in your car as they travel best and most safely in a crate. Most folks have a crate for the home and a crate in the car. Absolutely NO riding free on the back of a pickup truck!!! This is a big safey NO-NO.
Dog Food: We start our babies with Purina One Puppy Food--lamb & rice flavor. We soak it in water for several hours before feeding to soften it up and then take a fork to crush it like an oatmeal consistency. Depending upon the growth of the puppy, you may continue to use puppy chow for a full year. However, many vets are recommending switching to regular dog food at about eight months so the bones won't grow TOO fast. Check with your vet during your immunization visits. Please do not change your puppy food for the first three months. If you decide to change to another brand, you will need to do this gradually, slowly adding the new type to the Purina One chow until you eventually have most of the new brand. Quality food = quality coat and skin. No cooked bones!!! No bones of any kind for puppies. NO scraps for puppies please. Their little digestive systems are still forming and we don't want to upset them. NEVER, ever chocolate, pork (like bacon scraps, etc) or onions. Note: We don't serve any food with wheat or soy or corn or preservatives to our adult dogs!
Puppy Treats: Little puppies can have small puppy biscuits as a treat. NO RAWHIDE or PIG EARS or anything like that. Don't want them to get choked on little chewed off pieces. Good treats for later on include hotdogs…cut in half lengthwise and then sliced. Be sure to cut them lengthwise because otherwise they can get lodged in the throat. You can even microwave these to dehydrate and have treats which work well during obedience classes and training sessions.
Leash: A six foot leash will serve you well throughout the dog’s life. The nylon types are easiest to keep clean (you can throw them into the washer from time to time).
Collar: The babies grow very rapidly, so purchase little puppy size (10-12-14 inches) type. Watch them carefully and switch out to larger ones as they grow...no tight collars allowed. Nylon collars work well. Little puppies are too little for chain collars or choke chains…don't want to injure those little necks.
Toys: Puppies love stuffed animals of any type...be sure to cut off the eyes and buttons or any other piece which they might chew off and swallow. I usually just snip these off, stitch a few stitches to close them up and they are ready to go. Also wash well. No beenie type toys or things stuffed with toxic materials. Yard sales provide a wealth of stuffed animals which can be replaced cheaply as they learn to tear them up. I ALWAYS wash them before giving to the dog. Also tennis balls (springers are great retrievers), nylabones, and a large sock filled with a wash cloths (tied to close the end)...puppies will play with anything. Small ropes with knots tied in them are fun, but NEVER play TUG with a dog...this encourages dominance and aggression. And don't forget the clothe frisbees for when they are just a bit older. Find a basket to hold their toys and they learn very quickly that whatever is in the toy chest is ALLOWABLE. Other items are off limits.
Shampoo: BABY shampoo that doesn't burn or sting the eyes worked well on the little ones. Don't forget the conditioner too. Little puppies get chilled very easily. Unless they are really dirty, they don't need bathing. A dampened wash cloth will clean up little messes. But if you do bathe, be sure to dry off completely and use warm water to bathe.
Brush/Comb: Any good dog brush and comb will do...just be careful with those wire types when they are so young...hurts those tender little skins. As they grow up, a wire comb is invaluable.
Scissors: for grooming purposes (look for the smaller ones in the sewing department at Wal-Mart for inexpensive scissors)
Clippers: We use the Oster A-5 electric clipper that can be ordered from many dog supplies catalogs. They are usually cheaper from the catalogs. If you are interested in ordering one, I can recommend sources. We use a #10 blade for necks and certain parts of the body and a #5 blade for longer hair trimming. If you are going to do your own grooming, this is a good investment (usually runs about $130 each). We bought many, many $20 clippers at discount stores before we realized that we could have had a good pair long ago. Good clippers have removable blades that you can have resharpened at any knife or scissor sharpening location. Blade Wash (about $10) and clipper oil are essential to maintaining your quality clippers. Grooming costs are dog groomers range from $30 up depending upon your location and type of dog. It won't take long till you have paid for your GOOD clippers. And don't worry, if you "mess up", the hair will always grow back.
Cotton Balls: dampen to gently wipe out those little ears...but not wet...never leave a dogs ears wet...you will end up with a little ear infection.
Towels: save those old towels for drying, playing and sleeping on.
Newspapers: poopie patrol aids (never to hit the dog, but laid down for midnight accidents while very young and still learning the housebreaking rules.
Rag Rugs: One of our favorite things is the rag rugs you can buy at Wal-Mart for about $2-$3 each. They are small and fit right into those crates. They are easily washed and changed on a daily basis...so several of these are nice. We always send home each puppy with a rag rug freshened with the scent of it's littermates for comfort those first few days.
Vet Appointment: And be sure to make a vet appointment with your favorite local vet. We encourage you to see the vet within 48 hours to have your puppy examined and set up a regular heartworm/worming program and to schedule the remainder of your puppy immunizations. We use Interceptor here for heartworm control, Frontline spray for flea control (when puppies are older...NOT NOW). For flea control while very young, ask your vet for some puppy flea powder…safety first.
Yard Preparation: Be sure to check your yards for any poisonous plants (like canna lilies, any mushrooms, etc.) and NO poisoning for ants, bugs etc sprayed in the yard unless ABSOLUTELY SURE that it is puppy safe. Same goes for the house...put all plants out of reach of doggies...and no poinsettias, etc. You need to research poisonous plants to be sure you are not putting your springer at risk.
Fencing: Some type of containment fencing is an absolute MUST. Even if you plan to always have your puppy on a leash, there will be times when you absolutely don't want to step outside into the cold and it is "potty time". Have some type of enclosure to ensure the safety of your puppy. This makes for a fun place to play games also. Never leave your dog outside alone and unsupervised.
Dog house: If your dog will be outside for any length of time (puppy or adult), ALWAYS provide a weatherproof dog house shelter against the wind, rain and other weather. Our doghouses have two rooms…walk into the first one, turn the corner to enter into the sleeping area. This blocks the wind and rain so it doesn't rain inside the dog house. A simple plywood box with a flat plywood roof laid on top works well so that you can get inside the doghouse for cleaning purposes.
House preparation: Puppy proof just like you would baby proof. Be extra careful about electrical cords...puppies like to chew on ANYTHING. Be sure all poisons like cleaning supplies are VERY secure. Make your home safe.
Immunizations: Your puppy will have one puppy shot (parvo, distempter, etc.) before he leaves our home. You should take the puppy to the vet within 48 hours of going home to get a good checkup and be sure you have your vet all lined up. They will need two more puppy shots, then a rabies shot at four months old.
The New Puppy Handbook from AKC describes more puppy tips:
8 - 12 weeks:
1. Sometime during the 7 - 9 week old age is considered the fear period...and he may suddenly become very cautious about anything new in his environment. Watch and avoid abrupt movement or loud sounds during this sensitive stage to prevent undue trauma to him. He will be investigating everything with his mouth...and this is combined with a sense of wanted to chew as he teeths and gets his permanent teeth. Provide him with lots of safe, chewable toys.
2. Your young puppy needs tosleep much of the day. Keep playtimes short and give him lots of down time. Don't force him to keep up with prolonged activity and resist the urge to show him off to everyone right away.
3. Your pup's immune system is not fully developed until he is about 12 weeks old. Protect him from serious canine diseases until he has had his complete vaccination schedule and avoid dog parks, other dogs, etc.
4. Short attention spans are the norm. Begin teaching him to wear a collar, following on a leash and coming when called. Coming should ALWAYS be a positive thing. Keep training sessions short...about three to five minutes with plenty of treats and praise, at home...no training classes yet.
5. By 12 weeks the puppy gets better control of his bladder and houstraining begins. Right now be sure to take your puppy out frequently, afte every meal, each time he awakes from a nap, after a bout of activity, and at least every hour or so in between. When you are not with him, provide a safe confined space with a toilet area.
12 - 16 Weeks:
1. He still needs lots of sleep and is full of energy when awake. Bladder and bowel training are improving and adult teeth coming in. Have the vet check his mouth to be sure the puppy teeth are coming out as they should next vet visit.
2. Puppy is inquisitive and should be socialized regularly. This influences how he will behave as a adult...It is extremely important for your dog to hae good experiences now...with other dogs, people, and his environment. His immune system has matured and he can now visit public places and play with other dogs. A local puppy obedience class is now in order. Take the time to play with your puppy.
3. You should have started heartworm preventive medications by now...talk to your vet.
4. Housetraining...don't get lazy...and assign a word for going to the bathroom...I use "hurry up." Every time he goes, say 'good hurry up' with lots of praise. If you catch him in the act of an accident, scoop him up immediately and take him outside, praising him when he finishes outside. If an accident occurs when you are not looking, do not punish him...he won't understand and you will damage your relationship. Frequent outings, persistence and watchfulness, with lots of praise are the key.
5. Do not get into rough housing with the puppy and don't get rough during training...no harsh corrections. To nuture your bond, hand - feed sometimes and feed the kibble to him bit by bit. Play a game, call his name, back away, then give him food when he comes to you.
6. Begin basic grooming, brushing his teeth with doggie toothpaste, handling mouth and feet, trim nails, etc.
4 - 6 Months
1. This is a period of growth..much clumsiness, and you have one rambunctious child!
2. Around four months the avoidance period may begin...much like the fear periodof 7 - 9 weeks. If he tends to be on the shy side..keep things fun and do not push him or punish him for his anxiety. He is usually especially receptive to training at this time and looks to you for comfort, praise and protection.
3. Feeding is still three times a day, and ask your vet about flea and tick programs. Inspect the inside of his ears to be sure they're clean and free of odor or discharge. Discuss spaying and neutering with your vet.
4. Continue socialization. Housetraining may deteriorate if you don't stay vigilent. Remember to be on top of this...always.
5. Training sessions should be short...no more than 15 minutes; Don't allow behaviors you don't want when the dog is full grown...like jumping up on you, baring, on the furniture or bed. Sign up for another puppy class. Remember to check the collar to be sure you can easily slide three fingers under it.
6 - 9 months:
1. This is a major growth period and he is starting to feel the hormones. It is important to get enough exercise. Watch for early signs of aggressions, especially in males, and dominant behavior. Be firm about the rules...your teenager will challenge you. Give loving attention and guidance and you will both come through this stage gracefully.
2. You can reduce the feedings to twice a day.
3. Check on the spaying and neutering appointments with your vet.
4. Reinforce good manners and prevent your teen from becoming destructive mischief. You might even try having him on a leash tied to you in the house. Teach him to lie down beside you in the house. You can also keep him near you ina comfortable crate or pen for short periods of time.
9-12 Months:
1. Most breeds attain adult size by 12 months, but they are still puppies inside. Maintain a schedule and routine and go back to reinforcing the basics if necessary. If your dog seems stressed when you are about to leave, practice leaving and returning very quickly to desensitize him to your l;eaving.
2. Remember to continue feeling puppy formula until he is at least one year old. Do not allow him to become overweight and cut back on portion sizes if he starts to become portly.
3. Vet check and one year rabies shots are due at one year.
4. Consider preparing him for the Canine Good Citizen test (CGC). Check the AKC web site for criteria and how to test.
5. Have fun and celebrate your first year together~~ Continue reading about dog development and continue doing fun things with your dog...walks, swimming, rides, walks through the woods, obedience classes, games, agility, dog shows, or any other activity which allows you and your dog to bond and have fun~!!
I hope these beginner tips help you to welcome your baby in a safe manner. Remember, a healthy puppy is a valued family member. Do your part to ensure that your new puppy is in a healthy and safe environment.
Christy Judah, Carolina Kennels |
